Following the introduction of actual cushion-shaped cases last year, I was uncertain about what Cartier would present at this year's Watches and Wonders Geneva event. Over the past few years, the brand has consistently debuted some of the most buzzworthy watches, not just at the exhibition but potentially throughout the year. Their focus never appeared to be on outdoing competitors or even themselves, but rather on continually producing exhilarating timepieces. So, what would they unveil this year? I didn't know, but I certainly wouldn't have predicted that Cartier would invert the gearing of a movement to create a watch that spins in the opposite direction. Yet, that's precisely what they revealed during this year's showcase—the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind, delivering eccentricity wrapped elegantly, bringing a touch of understated affluence typical of a platinum Cartier.

On the wrist, the platinum Santos-Dumont Rewind, measuring 31.5mm wide, 43.5mm lug-to-lug, and 7.3mm thick, is just as exceptional as its counterparts. This constitutes the "Large" case size for the SdC, and although it may seem small to some (or indeed to most), the dimensions feel more substantial given the square proportions of the watch, making it fit perfectly on the wrist. Note that the watch features a slight curvature that enhances comfort compared to a flat watch. All this is further assisted by the custom-fitted leather strap, which Cartier made a concerted effort to coordinate with the dial. Interestingly, the strap includes a simple tab for quick release, unlike the brand's proprietary push-button mechanism. The ruby cabochon crown also matches, and while I adore the aesthetic of Cartier crowns, anyone who has ever used one knows they can be somewhat tricky. I discovered that I needed to employ my fingertips to pull it out and didn't find much grip afterward. This becomes particularly problematic when dealing with a manual movement, as is the case here.

cartier copy watches Enough about the case, let's delve into the peculiar dial you're interested in! Indeed, the hands rotate in the opposite direction, and yes, initially it can be confusing. However, after spending some time on the wrist, you become accustomed to it, even if it takes slightly longer than usual. During this brief interval, though, I found the minor irritation was overtaken by a greater feeling of delight at such an unnecessary but delightful complexity—if we can label it as such. The real challenge lies in remembering that the hands move backward. As a watch enthusiast, I typically don't glance at the indices when checking the time, thus the inverted Roman numerals didn't assist significantly. The clearest indication was realizing that upon glancing at the watch, the hands would progress, albeit in the incorrect direction. I envision that if I owned this piece, I'd acclimate to it and cope with the brief adjustment phase each time I wore it—or simply disregard the issue and relish the watch as a piece of jewelry.

The dial itself is crafted from carnelian, ensuring that each of the 200 Santos-Dumont Rewind models boasts a unique face. Regarding this specific model, I noticed that the stone dial appeared dull under certain lights, vividly red under others, and deeply garnet-like in yet different situations. While it's special due to being a stone dial, and I appreciate the variability it provides, a part of me wished for a straightforward cherry-red sunray pattern. The hands evoke a vintage design rather than the classic Cartier sword hands. The brand labels them as "apple" hands, and I guess I can see the resemblance in how any circular shape could be likened to an apple.

cartier watches first copy One element of the watch I particularly adore is Alberto Santos-Dumont's engraving on the caseback, filled with red to echo the dial, followed directly beneath by a reflection. Cartier states, "This limited edition follows in the magical and unprecedented footsteps of the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, for whom anything is possible." The signature is a thoughtful detail that lends credence to the tentative connection the brand strives to forge with the celebrated pilot and namesake of the brand's best-selling watch collections. Underneath the caseback resides the manually wound Caliber 230 MC, with gears adjusted to enable the unusual time display. It operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (vph) with a 38-hour power reserve.

If this watch weren't remarkably attractive (despite the occasional dirt-like appearance of the stone dial), it would likely be a total failure, but coupled with the Santos-Dumont platform, it manages to function as a quirky yet enjoyable piece. Limited to 200 units and priced at $38,400 USD, nobody is acquiring this as their sole timepiece. Consequently, it's destined to augment an already impressive collection with a dash of whimsy that retains sophistication. For additional details, visit the Cartier website.